Cycling the Heart of Bohemia & Moravia

Connecting the two most significant cities in the Czech Republic—Brno and Prague—this route offers a profound journey through the soul of Central Europe. Unlike the more common Elbe River path, this cross-country trajectory takes you through the rolling Moravian Highlands and into the historic Bohemian basin.

Cycling conditions in the Czech Republic are world-class; the national “Cyklotrasy” network is meticulously marked, weaving through quiet agricultural roads and dedicated forest paths. We rode in late spring, enjoying mild weather with temperatures around 20°C. While the “Greenway” from Vienna to Prague is more famous, this specific route from Brno is a hidden gem for those seeking authentic, less-crowded villages and deep historical immersion.

Preparation

The Bank of Brno

Our adventure began with the logistical precision required for international bike travel. After landing at Václav Havel Airport, we navigated to our base in Prague to store our specialized bicycle travel boxes. Carrying our own non-electric manual gravel bikes, assembly was our first priority. Once the gears were indexed and the panniers loaded, we utilized a pre-booked van transfer for the two-hour drive southeast to Brno. Arriving in Brno’s historic center, the city’s energy was palpable. We spent our final “rest” evening wandering the cobblestones of the Zelný trh, surrounded by Baroque fountains and the imposing silhouette of the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul.

Our first overnight stay was at the:
Grandezza Hotel Luxury Palace

The building is a stunning architectural relic that famously served as a major regional bank during the Austro-Hungarian era.

A word about Brno’s Medieval Labyrinth Directly beneath your feet at the Grandezza Hotel lies a sprawling labyrinth of medieval cellars. Since the 13th century, these tunnels were used for food preservation and beer maturation. Today, parts of the “Labyrinth Under the Vegetable Market” are open to the public.

Day 1

The Climb to Vír

60 Km | 700m climb

We departed Brno under a clear sky, quickly leaving the city traffic behind for the serene “Cyklostezka” paths. This was our most challenging day of climbing as we entered the Moravian Highlands. The route followed the Svratka River, which acted as our north star. As the elevation increased, the scenery shifted from urban sprawl to dense pine forests and rolling meadows. The climb toward the Vír reservoir tested our legs, but the descent into the valley was exhilarating. We were struck by the hospitality in this rural region; the locals welcomed our group of four with genuine curiosity.

Overnight we stayed at:
Hotel Vír

A modern, cyclist-friendly haven located right at the foot of the massive Vír dam.

A word about the Svratka River Valley The Svratka River is the lifeblood of southern Moravia. The Vír Dam (Vírská přehrada), which you visited, is the third highest dam in the country. It creates a critical water reservoir and offers a microclimate that keeps the valley lush and green.

View on Komoot

Day 2

To Litomyšl

55 Km | 560m climb

Leaving Vír, we continued north toward the Bohemian border. The terrain smoothed out into a series of rolling “waves” through the Pardubice region. We rode through quiet agricultural hamlets where time seemed to stand still, with traditional timber-framed houses lining the road. Our destination was Litomyšl. Entering the town is like entering a storybook; the massive Renaissance Chateau looms over the historic square. We spent the late afternoon exploring the chateau gardens and the long, arched square which is widely considered one of the most beautiful in the country.

Overnight we stayed at:
Penzion V Podzámčí Litomyšl

This charming guesthouse is located literally in the shadow of the UNESCO-protected castle walls.

A word about the Sgraffito Envelopes The Litomyšl Chateau is famous for its “sgraffito”—a decoration technique where patterns are scratched into the plaster. The facade features over 8,000 unique “envelopes,” and legend has it that no two are exactly alike.

View on Komoot

Day 3

The Gingerbread City

56 Km | 220m climb

The path leveled out significantly as we moved deeper into the lowlands of Eastern Bohemia. We pedaled along the Loučná River, passing through a patchwork of golden wheat fields and small oak forests. This day was a sensory delight as we approached Pardubice, known throughout the country for its sweet heritage. The city itself welcomed us with a grand Pernštýn Square, where we enjoyed a well-earned coffee while observing the ornate facade of the City Hall. The ride was smooth, allowing us to maintain a steady pace on our manual gravel bikes without the strain of the previous mountain days.

Overnight we stayed at:
Hotel U Zlateho Andela

Located right in the historic center, this hotel allowed us easy access to the town’s famous evening ambience.

A word about Pardubice Gingerbread Since the 16th century, Pardubice has been synonymous with “Perník” (gingerbread). The local recipe, protected by the EU, involves a complex blend of spices and honey. It was historically shaped in wooden molds to create intricate artistic pieces.

View on Komoot

Day 4

The Elbe to Kolín

60 Km | 320m climb

This day provided a wonderful change of pace as we joined the famous Elbe River Path (Labe). The riding became effortless on flat, paved paths that hugged the riverbank. We cycled through riverside forests and past local fishermen, enjoying the rhythmic nature of the water. This section of the Elbe is part of the EuroVelo network and felt notably different from the rugged Moravian hills of our first days. We finished in Kolín, a royal town that feels remarkably authentic and unpolished compared to the more tourist-heavy stops.

Overnight we stayed at:
Hotel Villa Romantica

A peaceful boutique villa with beautiful gardens, providing a perfect quiet retreat.

A word about Petr Parléř’s Kolín Though Kolín is an industrial center today, its historic core contains the Cathedral of St. Bartholomew. This Gothic giant was built by Petr Parléř, the same genius who designed the Charles Bridge in Prague.

View on Komoot

Day 5

The Brewing Tradition

69 Km | 410m climb

As we moved west, we traversed the fertile planes of Central Bohemia. This was our longest day in terms of distance, requiring a steady cadence through several quaint villages and open stretches of farmland. We could feel the magnetic pull of the capital as the density of cycle path signs increased. The highlight of the day was our arrival at a local pivovar (brewery) where we enjoyed a traditional Czech dinner. Celebrating our progress with locally brewed lager became a ritual that connected us to the deep-seated beer culture of the region.

Overnight we stayed at:
Hotel Čertousy

A unique stay on the outskirts of Prague, offering a rustic atmosphere and excellent local cuisine.

A word about Czech Beer Culture Czechia has the highest beer consumption per capita globally. Brewing is a point of national pride, with history stretching back to the 10th century. In small towns, the local brewery is often the community’s social and historical heart.

View on Komoot

Day 6

The Spired Skyline of Prague

52 Km | 510m climb

The final push into Prague was a mixture of triumph and nostalgia. We met our local guide on the city outskirts to navigate the complex web of urban bike paths. Riding through the heart of the “City of a Hundred Spires,” we crossed the Vltava River and paused to appreciate the view of the Old Town. The trip concluded at our airport hotel where we performed the bittersweet ritual of disassembling and packing our own non-electric touring bikes for the flight home.

Final Overnight stay:
Courtyard by Marriott PRG Airport

The perfect logistical choice for our farewell dinner and an early flight the next morning.

A word about the Vltava’s Power The Vltava is the soul of Prague, serving as the inspiration for Smetana’s symphonic poem “Moldau”. It doesn’t just divide the city; it defines its cultural identity.